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Vossa Jazz Festival 2019: Jazz Folk Meet by the Lake

Josef Woodard By

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...a special poetic resonance settled in at this year’s convergence at the Vossa Jazz Festival, conjuring a special emphasis on the special relationship and complementary melding of Norwegian traditional folk music—with its enigmatic 'blue notes' and sense of space—and jazz elements, including free improvisation.
Vossa Jazz Festival
Voss, Norway
April 12-14, 2019

There are bigger fish on the storied and seemingly ever-healthy Norwegian jazz festival circuit than Vossa Jazz, but it has its own brand of soulfulness. The kickoff event on a Nordic festival list including later blowouts in nearby Bergen, Trondheim, Molde, Kongsburg, and Oslo, Vossa Jazz is a deceptive little powerhouse occasion all its own, nestled in the lakeside town and winter ski haven, pop. 15,000, and whose other main tourist-luring event is an extreme sports festival. It can be said that Vossa Jazz, too, serves up extreme experiences: take, for example, the wild free range but semi- structured late-night set by the band known as The End, this year.

Somehow, a special poetic resonance settled in at this year's convergence in Voss, conjuring an emphasis on the special relationship and complementary melding of Norwegian traditional folk music—with its enigmatic "blue notes" and sense of space— and jazz elements, including free improvisation. In the rural and lyrically beauteous Voss, the folk-meets-jazz by the lake aspect rings truer than elsewhere, not the least of which reasons is the presence here of the Ole Bull Academy, the country's premiere "folk music academy," where many of the festival's intriguing shows take place in its Osasalen venue.

Most notably, this folk-jazz-mysticism Norwegian tradition was delivered boldly and atmospherically by accordionist Frode Haltli, with his large, recently formed group, aptly dubbed the Avant Folk Ensemble—which recorded for the Hubro label and is starting to make festival rounds. By my biased account, Haltli's mesmerizing and newly-commissioned set, for a ten-piece ensemble including Hardingfel player Erlend Apneseth and conventional violin, horns (with saxophonist Rolf-Erik Nystrøm, also in Haltli's juicy cool band POING), was the most memorable show of the Voss fest.

The Avant Folk aggregate wove skeins of ensemble-improvised passages with assured soloists (the leader included), free zones and folk-ish melodies (operative qualifier: ish). A clearly Norwegian flavor presided, but the musical trajectory also veered off in the general direction of folk traditions from American and Arabic sources (Haltli reportedly had his accordion specially tuned for the Arabic passage). Haltli, long renowned for his side-person work, orchestral projects, work with avant-vocalist-composer Maja Ratjke and more, is riding high under his own name with Avant Folk, a moving cultural marriage which seems fate-kissed and in the right hands.

Norwegian folk's natural kinship with jazz and improv sensibilities was a recurring theme, however intentionally, elsewhere in the festival program this year. Haltli appeared as a special guest earlier on Saturday in the intimate Osasalen space with Apneseth, a pizzicato-leaning Hardingfel player who is also in Avant Folk clan, with a set basking in beguiling atmospherics and an electro-acoustic mesh of a meditative order. Vintage field recordings of Norwegian tunes occasionally sneaked into the sonic mix—like a friendly/ghostly reminder of the cultural root system tapped anew by this group.

In the same space on Sunday at noon, the new and inspired trio Tanaka-Lea-Strønen (the young pianist Ayumi Tanaka, saxophonist-vocalist Martha Lea and veteran drummer Thomas Strønen) offered its own entrancing folk-jazz chemistry, seamlessly moving from antic free play to folkish tunes and melancholic songs. As disparate as the musical idioms might seem, the juxtapositions never felt jarring or arbitrary but informed by a fresh collective logic. This is a trio to keep tabs on.

Later that afternoon, the Osasalen hosted another young group ripe for the title of "discovery" act of this festival, the sextet with the deceptively cheeky name Spacemusic Ensemble. Suggestions of kitschy psychedelia are quickly flicked off in the presence of this innovative art-rock-jazz ensemble (evenly split by gender, incidentally), with its intricate lines often delivered by saxophonist Signe Emmeluth, guitarist Karl Bjorå and the wonderfully versatile vocalist Rohey Talaah. Parts and are passed around, also to pianist Guostė Tamulynaitė, tuba player/electronicist Mangus Bevik Lovseth and subtle drummer Andreas Winther. Calling this music prog-fusion only goes so far in describing its original vision.

In another venerable tradition at Vossa Jazz, which distinguishes it from its Norwegian jazz fest colleagues, there is the legendary smalahove, a ceremonial sheep's head dinner tradition in this Hardanger region in western Norway. Once reserved for working class and farming folks, but now a delicacy sought out by tourists (and post-Anthony Bourdain "extreme cuisine" fans), the smalahove is an acquired taste, of course.

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