Tracks and Tipples to End the Winter

Dear All About Jazzers,

Kristen here, your singer/songwriter/sommelier. I'm thrilled to be sharing my wine and song pairing, Jazz & Juice, with you once more. What started during the pandemic as a deep-dive series has now become a bi-weekly, two minute meditation on the pleasures of both music and wine, meant to be enjoyed at the pace of life. Here are three entries from the past months for you to enjoy.

If you'd like to get the pairing sent to your inbox every-other-Friday, I invite you to subscribe here.

In Tribute

Juice

There are wines that aren't just representations of a place or a grape—they are rather a living communication of the past, of place, and people. The winemakers at Viña Zorzal in Navarra, Spain, are brothers who carry on the tradition of their father and the winery's founder, Antonio Sanz. The Quatro del Quatro 2021 bottling is a tribute to him.

The wine is so vibrant that I can't imagine a more powerful way to honor a legacy, more than any statue or plaque. The balance, freshness and character of the '21 vintage would make even a casual drinker stop and inquire about what is in the glass. Made of 100% graciano, a grape not often seen in single varietal form, this was an incredible introduction for me—a first scintillating one-on-one get together with a new friend heretofore only ever seen in a crowd.

The fruit is dark—black plum, fig and charred cherry. There's warm leather on the nose, delicate minerality, and tannins that are so well integrated it seems strange to mention them as elements apart. The wine's vivacity contrasts with depth of flavor in a way that make it truly charismatic, I can only imagine Antonio was the same.

You can find the bottle here. (For those in the U.S., be sure to make sure you select your state to see availability.)

Jazz

"Round Midnight" is one of the most performed jazz standards for players and singers alike, often emphasizing the song as mood. However, when Carmen McRae performs it, it becomes a piece of essential communication. Rather than fall into a nocturnal reverie, we sit up and lean in—there is something important we need to hear. Carmen McRae is, well, just everything—a singer of incredible depth, lyrical acumen, a master of rhythm, timbre and tone. Her utter command has always captivated me, and when pressed to name a favorite singer (awful question) she is mine.

In her Carmen Sings Monk (Novus, 1990) album, she pays tribute to the legend that is Thelonious Monk in a way only she can. It's Monk's tune (co-credited to Cootie Williams) and Bernie Hanighen's lyrics are featured in most sung renditions. Here, Carmen adds more of her own lyrics which illuminate shadowed corners of the song. Her dusky-hued approach touches the bottom of her range and feeling, while never losing the gleaming edge that is always in her voice; her incisive wit complementing a depth of feeling.

This song has balance, nuance, and is a fitting tribute to its creator as well as a window into her inimitable genius. Funny how the most reverential homage can bring out the best in the one who makes it.

Going Up

Juice

This week's wine is from a producer I have admired for a long time, both because of what's inside the bottle and on the outside: the labels are some of the most beautiful and unique on any shelf. I think of Marilyn Monroe's line from "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes" about not marrying someone simply because they're rich or beautiful, but it 'sure doesn't hurt.'

In this case we have a rich, beautiful label, and the contents to match. I'm captivated by Immich-Batterieberg's rieslings. The Escheburg trocken^* 2022, is blended from vines grown on the steep slopes of several top-notch vineyards in the Mosel region of Germany. A dry Riesling of this quality will make a convert of anyone who loves something nervy and mineralic, yet might still associate this grape with the sweeter stuff (talking to you, Mom.)

Permeated with slatey stone, the fruit has both concentration and edge. Its precision and tension have the ascendent energy of an ice-pic-chiseled mountain climb. You can find the bottle here.

^*"trocken" means dry—good word to know if that's what you like.

Jazz

Jared Schonig is one of my favorite drummers both to play with and listen to (he's the drummer who kept time on our Holidays(2023, Sunnyside). The drive, intensity and angularity of "Climb" on Two Takes v.2 (2021, Anzic) lives up to its title.

The air feels thinner from the outset, something about that fine flute section and the insistence of the lower register of the band. Schonig's clarity and precision give the track backbone and laser-like direction. It's an exhilarating listen thanks to some of the best players in the biz, and Mike Holober's expansive arrangement. (And yes, the album cover looks great, too ;))

Unusual Ingredients

Juice

I feel like hefty reds can be a wintertime go-to for wine lovers this time of year, yet there's something bright and seasonally combatting about the right vivacious white—as in the case of the Ferrando "Torraza/Etichetta Bianca" Erbaluce di Caluso 2023. Erbaluce is a rarely-seen grape native to the Piedmont region of Italy—and it's by no means plentiful even there. As with some of the noblest grapes, it's very versatile—its acidity and verve mean the grape translates beautifully to sparkling, still, sweet and dry wines. The flavors of this straw colored wine win you over right away—with lime and nectarine fruit, a powdery floral hint, a salted sour candy quality in the middle of the palate. What strikes me most is how all the flavor is so very in focus. The wine evokes stone in restraint and structure, tasting like a beam of wintertime sunshine. You can find the bottle here.

Jazz

An unexpected ingredient can be just the right thing, in the right hands. Lionel Hampton (1908-2002) didn't invent the vibraphone, yet, his artistry with the instrument brought it from the shadows into the light, forevermore an expressive solo instrument in jazz. His striking way with the instrument (pun intended), facility, and musicianship all create a sound with drive and energy even as it bathes you in its golden glowy tone.

Hampton's signature tune which he wrote with Benny Goodman, "Flying Home" (1939), is an essential listen of the jazz canon. I chose this recording of his hit because you hear so much of him in it. A great tune lends itself to myriad versions—the 1942 Benny Goodman Orchestra rendition is the most famous, so I'm including that as well. Enjoy!

I look forward to sharing another compilation with you next quarter, and hope you'll join me in the meantime at the newsletter here! Happy listening and sipping,

Kristen

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