| Day 2
| The Aftermath
Two days after my arrival in South Africa, things are still a blur. I planned this trip months ago and I did plenty of homework in advance, but nothing can adequately prepare you for the explosive cultural and human landscape of South Africa. Home to over 45 million people speaking eleven official languages, South Africa overflows with color. It's also a decade-old democracy, which still feels pretty young people seem genuinely excited about the possibilities that are finally being realized.
The activity on this trip officially centers around the Cape Town International Jazz Festival, held on Easter weekend in the rapidly growing, cosmopolitan city of Cape Town at the southern tip of the continent. Twenty performances over the course of a mere two days highlight local talenthalf the acts are African, with a good number from this country itselfand far beyond.
Getting to South Africa
Cape Town International Jazz Festival
Dave Holland Quintet
Day Two Coverage
Getting to South Africa
Time and space seem to paradoxically blow up in scale when you're sitting on an airplane for 24 hours, or maybe that's just the kind of mind-expanding thinking that allows you to cross ten time zones and sixty degrees of latitude without developing mental cramps. It was pitch black when I hurled my body out of bed for the flight from San Diego, night again when the connection left New York, and dark once more by the time we touched down in Johannesburg. The sun rose and set twice before I set foot on African soil for the first time.
All those hours on a packed flying bus take their toll, of course. I came prepared for the worst, with an entire second backpack full of books and reading material to pass the time. But the plane had a personal video console in front of every seat, with my choice of movies, TV shows, games, and a GPS- driven realtime map. All was well once I figured out how to zap the vicious dragonfly monster on the space invaders game.
South African Airways operates the only direct flights from the US to South Africa, and our Airbus was on only its second commercial flight, a virtual virgin in a decadent aviation world. I've never seen a plane that shiny and new beforedefinitely never will again. Apparently the South Africans aren't quite as paranoid as Americans have become, since they armed every passenger in the plane with a real metal fork and knife. Nobody attacked anything but their food, though. (Quite happily, I might add. The salmon was oustanding.)
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South Africa quite proudly calls itself the Rainbow Nation, and what was once a polarized black- and-white regime is now a full-spectrum democracy. And while the economic extremes created by apartheid are apparent everywhere, political equality is finally a reality and there's a sense that people are really trying to work together. According to the people I spoke with, diversity is something to cultivate and explore, differences a source of curiosity and interest. They like to talk to visitors, share experiences, and share space.
The accumulation in one place of people from so many different backgrounds has resulted in an incredible diversity of culture, with far too many places to see and events to experience. (Can you sense the whirlwind effect?) Jazz, to touch on one topic dear to my heart, has been integral to South African musical culture since the '20s, with all sorts of local variants springing up in Johannesburg and Cape Town, among other places. It's still important here today.
The country faces huge hurdles: unemployment, HIV, housing and infrastructure shortages. But it's also the richest country in Africa, powered by huge mineral resources (gold, diamond, platinum), manufacturing, and more. The province of Gauteng (where Johannesburg is located) accounts for 10% of the GNP of Africa, as well as a number of other equally impressive statistics. The government takes a very practical and progressive approach to solving these problems, with a keen eye on corruption, and most people seem confident that the fast rate of change will continue.
Yet startling gaps between rich and poor in South Africa are an ever-present reminder of apartheid's legacy. In nicer neighborhoods (near the one in Johannesburg where I stayed) there are tall fences everywhere. In townships like Soweto, which saw electrification only twenty years ago, squatters are still packed densely together in makeshift structures. The government has a plan to build 350,000 new homes a year to help relieve the housing shortage, but it still hasn't caught up with demand.
You can't help but notice these things if you get out and check out your surroundings. Massive extraterrestrial-looking mountains around the area contain material extracted from mines, presenting full-sized reminders of the forces that drove this city, the youngest one of its size in the world, to grow so rapidly.
It helps to have a local on hand to get a balanced picture. As part of a group of visiting American journalists, I took a tour of Soweto (the SOuth WEstern TOwnship near Johannesburg), which was born of the massive urban expansion that took place after the discovery of gold and recruitment of black labor to mine it. It's now home for 1.5 million people, according to a local, though estimates vary widely.
Two Nobel Prize winners, Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu, used to live in the same Soweto neighborhood in the '40s and '50s. We visited Mandela's very modest old house and paused by the window police used to break to get into his bedroom for many a rude awakening. (The Mandela family still takes out the trash, as the can in the back attested.) We also visited the Hector Pieterson Memorial, named after a child who was shot by police during a massive student protest in June of 1976. The serene silence of the rather modest memorial is in blunt contrast to the insane violence that took place here three decades ago. One can't visit the place without feeling that odd combination of tragedy and hope that seems to characterize the past and present, respectively, of Soweto.
All this history is pretty humbling, whatever your political orientation. Our guide, who introduced himself to us as Joe, admitted that he, too, had thrown a rock or two during his youth in Soweto. (In false modesty he also claimed to have terrible aim.) The arrival of democracy in 1994 has offered many young black people access to education and other opportunities previously denied to them, and while political equality has not yet translated into economic equality, Joe has hopes that there will one day be a strong black middle class in South Africa.
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Cape Town International Jazz Festival
Cape Town's jazz festival, as is the trend these days, extends to many genres outside what is usually appreciated as jazz. Relatively mainstream instrumentalists like Yellowjackets and Dave Holland are matched by Afro-pop divas Suthukazi Arosi and Cesaria Evora, local heroes Johnny Clegg and Mahotella Queens, and youthful pop stars 340ml and Pitch Black Afro. Whatever your take on the global music scene, warm voices and propulsive rhythms are the heart of the action here.
A bit of history: the CTIJF, now in its sixth year, used to be called the North Sea Jazz Festival due to its affiliation with the one in the Netherlands. But, as we have been reminded time and time again, the event is now "proudly South African," under new management, and stronger than ever. Click on the image above to see the full- size program.
Sponsors include the South African Broadcasting Corporation (SABC, whose sports programs have faithfully put me to bed and woken me up); South African Airways (whose jets take me everywhere); Standard Bank; and mobile telecommunications company MTN. All sorts of other local organizations play a part in making this event independent and secure. ESP Afrika (headed by the un-CEO-like Rashid Lombard) takes care of everything behind the scenes, and except for a few video cameramen who have a bad habit of standing in front of performers, they've done their job here spectacularly.
It's sort of strange to experience a jazz festival in a convention center. (This particular one is enormous, and I'm told it's booked through 2007. Cape Town has apparently proven itself an attractive destination for the world at large.) Many thousands of people home in on the same building, music pouring out of each door along the way. Enormous cavernous spaces like Kippie's place a huge distance between listeners who want to sit down and performers on stage. (You can stand up front if you want, which is what I did.) Go to Rosie's or Moses Molelekwa Stages instead if you want to have a more intimate experience.
The planners had these things in mind when they decided who would perform where: when the music is made to move feet, space up front is available. When it's more for the head, you can usually sit and get comfortable. The sound varies from location to location, too, with volume and balance adjusted as appropriate for the musical setting. Certain performers, like Dave Holland, came through with crystalline clarity; only one, Suthukazi Arosi, really screwed things up, blasting nasty treble into my eardrums until I hastily ripped up a 10 rand note to crumple it into temporary ear plugs. But more on that later...
Audience members seem to appreciate the attention to detail, which includes live big-screen video closeups at Kippie's, for example. I've never seen such a pleasant bunch of people gather to enjoy musicwhatever the style.
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