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Jazz Aficionado Riffs in Kitchen, Too

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When it comes to trading licks, Jazz St. Louis bossman Gene Dobbs Bradford thinks that cooking and music make a powerful duo.

“When you cook a meal, it's like a performance," he says, “a one-time experience, very finite. Done right, it has a certain shape and phrasing."

The spirit often moves Bradford to make a bang-up Sunday supper. On summer Sundays, he starts the grill about 4:30 a.m., gets the heat low and even, then puts ribs, brisket or a pork shoulder in to smoke until the meat melts off the bone. “The whole neighborhood knows what you're up to," he says, “taking in that good smoke."

A cookbook he bought at his fourth-grade book fair sparked his culinary curiosity. “Popovers. I liked that word. The first thing I made was popovers with honey and butter," he says. At 15, he was grilling leg of lamb for Easter dinner.

In addition to his paper route, he earned money from his cake-decorating business. “Very good money," he adds.

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