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There were some things which you were allowed to do here, like have long hair, which you couldnít do if you lived in St Petersburg - they would take you to the police station and cut your hair.
Estonia is a land of music. Its runic folk song tradition predates the Vikings and its people lift their voices at the slightest provocation. Not surprising, then, that Soviet rule was finally ended in 1991 by the bloodless Singing Revolution a cycle of mass demonstrations in which a fifth of the population gathered to sing national songs. It's also not surprising that there's now a burgeoning and very healthy jazz scene in Estonia, centred around the Jazzkaar international festival, held every spring in the capital Tallinn. Jazzkaar now in its 16th year remains the focal point of the Estonian scene, when all of Tallinn comes alive with a vast variety of jazz, from mainstream to avant-garde: the full 'jazz arc' described in the festival's name.
WIDTH=200 HEIGHT=290>A key musician and scene-maker in Talinn is Jaak Sooaar: guitarist, composer, leading figure in the Estonian avant-garde and jazz community, and one half along with German saxophonist, Daniel Erdmann - of self-styled "free happy jazz duo, Erdmann/Sooaar Dessert Time. He's convinced that Estonia's history and close geographical proximity to Western Europe have helped to foster the independent and unique mindset that's helping to get this scene off the ground. "Estonia was different from the rest of the Soviet Union. We always knew what was happening in the world because we saw Finnish TV. There were some things which you were allowed to do here, like have long hair, which you couldn't do if you lived in St Petersburg they would take you to the police station and cut your hair.
It was a relative freedom that made Estonia naturally receptive to the avant-garde, and created a fertile ground that the most exploratory international musicians were happy to take advantage of when the Soviets finally left. Sooaar explains: "The avant-garde players were looking for new possibilities. In the '90s when we first had opportunities to play here they were the first guys to come over because they were not afraid and they didn't want too much money. In the first festival here, Steve Lacy played solo in a big hall, packed. Leroy Jenkins played solo violin. They played for maybe a thousand people. It was new and interesting and those guys came because they were searching.
This searching nature has persisted in Estonia, upheld by local musicians who insist on pushing the boundaries and mixing genres. A fine example is the Weekend Guitar Trio, an award-winning jazz/ambient/Improv group, which has worked with UK free-jazz/DJ duo, Spring Heel Jack, and which features a local legend by the name of Mart Soo.
Soo taught guitar at the Music College in Tallinn for some years (ex-pupils include Jaak Sooaar) and was previously part of a now-legendary Estonian free-Improv group called Tunnetusuksus ('Perception Unit'), which remains an inspiration to many younger Estonian musicians. In fact, Sooaar claims that today Estonia is "a guitar country because of Soo's influence, in much the same way that Lithuania is full of saxophonists because of the educating work of Vladimir Chesakin of the Ganelin Trio. In 2005 Soo played at Jazzkaar as part of a local trio backing the veteran French improviser and composer Jacques Di Donato in a wild and energising set of free-funk-rock that blew the cobwebs away and proved that this small country is producing some of the most exciting Improv around.
However, in keeping with the theme of the 'jazz arc' that is so important to Jazzkaar's conception of jazz, Estonia is also producing some more mainstream, though still exciting, acts with particular inclinations towards female vocals. Tallinn-based Hinkus are an R'n'B influenced outfit that wouldn't sound out of place in a London club, while Sofia Rubina is an astonishing 18-year old singer, amazing international audiences with a repertoire that brings in elements of klezmer and gypsy music.
At the other end of the spectrum, there's also a very strong affinity for experimental electronic music in Estonia to a certain degree influenced by nearby Scandinavian electro-jazz groups such as Supersilent and Wibutee. Tonis Leemets of Weekend Guitar Trio (and another ex-pupil of Mart Soo) explains the prevalence of genre-defying hybrids in Estonian electronic music: "When DJ culture came to Estonia in the 90s, it was such a small scene and such a new thing that everybody was listening to everything. You could have drum and bass, house, hip hop and jazz at one party. We couldn't afford separate clubs and different scenes for that. We were hearing everything and getting influences. For over a decade, Leemets has been turning these influences into something else, helping to create some of the most innovative electronic music happening anywhere, not just with the Weekend Guitar Trio, but also with his now defunct group Treee.
I love jazz because I enjoy the freedom.
I was first exposed to jazz when I was 17.
I met Cedar Walton at a concert in San Paulo.
The best show I ever attended was Helio Jambao trio.
The first jazz record I bought was Witchcraft by George Benson.
My advice to new listeners is listen to the old school first.