Norwegian Road Trip, Part 3: Oslo, July 12-14, 2010
No sooner was coffee over with Wettre than it was time for dinner with Terje Evensen. Evensen, a drummer who has also turned to electronic manipulation and production in recent years, actually spent some time in London in the early part of the 2000's, studying with British drummer Martin France and ultimately playing with him, contributing additional programming and sequencing to the British drummer's Spin Marvel (Babel, 2007), and percussion and additional editing to its follow-up, Spin Marvel 2: The Reluctantly Politicised Mr James (Edition, 2010). He has worked, since returning back to Norway in 2003, with groups including Bark and PD Conception, and has also released a recent solo album of percussion and electronics, Still You. You Still Here, on the Berlin-based fonorum label.
Easygoing, and quick to laughter, Evensen has been invited to do a live remix at Punkt this year, in Kristiansand, Norway. It's his first time at this increasingly prestigious festival, invited by co-Artistic Director Jan Bang on the strength of hearing Still You. You Still Here for but a single day. "I'm preparing a lot of samples from my own stuff," says Evensen, "because my plan is to remix my sounds with her [the singer he is remixing, Jenny Hval, a.k.a. Rockettothesky] sounds, so it's going to be a bit of her concepts but with my solo album. So that's what I'm doing. I'll also listen to her music and see if I can't point out a few songs or a few lines that I can work with."
Evensen has toured with Julian Arguelles, and Peruvian contemporary guitarist Andres Prado. "Prado composed beautiful songs, and we toured around Peru; luckily enough we played with a great old percussionist named Chocolate. He came along on the tour, and he was magic, he was great. I think he was 80 or 85 at the time, he was an old man, but his power on the cajon was just amazing. So he came along on a bit of the tour, and we had a week to record with him; that was great."
Evensen began studies at Trinity College in London, but left soon after, becoming more interested in live performance. "After high school, I toured a bit and worked a bit at a straight job, and I took private lessons with musicians. My main drum teacher has been Audun Kleive, here in Norway, and I studied with him at school also. Lucky enough, he moved back to the same town at the same time I started at school, so I met him there and then I moved to Oslo."
Evensen's connection with France began in, of all places, Kristiansand. "I did a gig in Kristiansand with my trio, and Graham Collier, he came down to the gig because he was in town, and said, 'Hey man, do you want to come down to London and study at the Royal Academy?' He wanted me to come to London to audition, but when I decided to apply, he had left the Academy. He had given me applications for Trinity and the Academy, and I ended up just applying for Trinity, and Martin was my drum teacher. I studied with him for half a year and then we started to work together."
Between work in his studiowhich Evensen was recently forced to close as he lost his location (but is working on establishing a new one)and live work, surprisingly, Evensen receives little funding from the music organizations in Norway. "So I have to teach a bit," Evensen says, "drums, and also some courses for the studiohow to produce an album, how to record technically."
While Evensen crosses paths with some of Jan Bang's approaches, he's a more traditional sampler/programmer, as opposed to the Punkt Artistic Co-Director's live sampling work. "As far as I know, he works much more with the live sampling, he doesn't have much prepared at all," Evensen explains. "I need a few soundscapes, or loops, or whatever, to base things on. I've mainly worked in my studio, where I've programmed stuff, and to do it on the spot like this [at Punkt] is totally new to me, so I need to at least have a few things ready. And then when I come down there, maybe I won't use them, but it's good to have a little plate with some sounds and things, so I can get started and then take it from there."
With a full schedule in Oslo, meeting with labels, musician and organizations committed to music in Norway, it was hard to find time to actually absorb the city itself. And so, the best way to do it was to take the "Grand Tour of Oslo"a 7.5 hour, combined bus and boat expedition that spent two hours out on the fjord and the rest of the time going to a number of museums and parks.
Sculpture Just Off-Shore of Oslo Opera House
The trip began on a small boat capable of handling approximately 60 people; and while the early morning was cloudy with even a bit of drizzling rain, when the boat left the dock near City Hall at 10:30 in the morning, the clouds suddenly began to clear, and the sun came out. It was perfect weather to be out on the water, as Magnus Fjeldstad narrated and answered questions throughout the two-hour boat trip.
The first half of the trip followed the coastline, passing a number of Oslo landmarks, including the headquarters of Snøhetta, the architect group that designed Tubaloon in Kongsberg. The boat also passed the large ferrylooking more like a cruise shipthat crossed the waters daily to Denmark, where many Norwegians apparently go to buy liquor at cheaper prices. Most impressive was a look at the Olso Opera House that Snøhetta also designed, with an remarkable glass and metal structure in the waters just off its coast. Close up, it was even larger than it appeared when the bus from Kongsberg passed it, on its way into Oslo just a couple of days earlier.
Fieldstad, a young student who will be returning to business studies in Bergen in the fall, was a fountain of stories and details. Passing a 12th century monastery, he recounted how the Catholic monks were mandated, by the Pope, to wake up at sunrise and go to bed at sunset. Clearly a dictum not written with Oslo in mind, where at the summer equinox there is, at most, five hours of night and, at the winter equinox, only five hours of daylight. After considerable time and considerable exhaustion, the monks were able to get special edict from the pope that allowed them to get eight hours sleep a night.
The tour also passed a number of swimming hutssmall wooden structures with a hole into the floor. There was a time when it was not acceptable for Norwegians to be seen naked, and so the swimming huts allowed them to undress and get into water privately; many of the huts have fallen into disrepair, but some are now actually owned and used by people with summer homes.
Traditional Norwegian Swimming Huts
Traveling around the islands in the large fjord where Oslo is surrounded by three hills, two facts became clear. First, there were a lot of boats; one in four Norwegians own a boat, in fact. Second, there were a surprising number of summer homes on the islands, ranging from modest to large and opulent. Surprising, then, that when the boat passed the summer home of one of Norway's princesses, it was actually quite plain and simple. A reflection, Fieldstad said, of a royal family that wants to live amongst regular people and, in many ways, be regular people. Norway's royalty is also unique in its origin. When the country seceded from Sweden and was suddenly in need of a king, there was no royal family. And so, the country approached a Danish prince, and asked if he would like to be King of Norway. He replied 'yes,' of course, but only on the condition that the Norwegian people agreed. And so, Norway is one of the only countries in the world where its monarchy was elected by popular vote.
With a population of 580,000, Oslo is Norway's largest city; it also houses some of the country's most affluent people. One island in the fjordat 150 kilometers long, one of the country's largestis, in fact, privately owned (the only one in Norway, in fact), and has the country's largest summer home. Norway has tried to buy back the island, but the owners refuse; no surprise, Fieldstad said, given how beautiful it is. On another islanda public onemore affluence was on display in a large summer home built in Italy, and then broken down into parts, transported to Norway and reassembled on the island.
A Typical Marina Off the Coast of Oslo
Bygdøy Island, one of the closest to Oslo, is notable as the most expensive place to live in Norway, and that's saying something for a country that has 25% sales tax, and where the average income tax rate is 32% (though it is a proportional system with breaks for lower income earners). Still, with salaries commensurate with the high taxes, and some of the best social services in the worldhealth care, education, cultural supportNorway is an incredibly appealing destination; not just to visit, but to live.
Fully Functioning Lighthouse on Island in Oslo Fjord
Often Rented Out For Weddings
Leaving the boat after two hours, Solveig Geista Franco-Norwegian who lived in Avignon but is in Norway to continue her studiespicked up the tour as it first visited three museums all grouped together. The Norsk Skøfartsmuseum , or Norwegian Maritime Museum, combines an exhibition of boats dating back to the very first boat every discovereda dug-out log, used as a boat 2,200 years agoto exhibitions of materials used over the centuries to construct sea-worthy vessels. A "Supervideograph," 23-minute a film that used five square screens to create a wrap-around effect, celebrated Norway's relationship with the sea, showing fishing towns that still exist and are functional today, as well as still images that demonstrate salting, smoking and other preservation techniques dating back to the 18th Century.
The Fram: First Boat to Reach the South Pole
The Fram Museum housed the actual boat (The Fram) that Roald Amundsen used to reach the South Pole between 1910 and 1912. He also came near the North Pole in another boat which became trapped in the ice for one year, Asmundsen later picking up the trip on foot and living off polar bear and, ultimately, dog meat. He didn't reach the North Pole, but he did make it to the South Pole, beating out Englishman Robert F. Scott with a combination of better transport (dogs and sleds instead of horses), better clothing (fur instead of wool) and better food (polar bear meat and walrus fat, rather than dried meat and vegetables). It was possible to walk inside the huge vessel, and one of the most curious and unique aspects was that, in hot weather (as it was), the boat oozed a black, gummy material that was originally used to seal the boat. That it has been in the museum for decades and still continues to ooze was highly unusual.
Next was the KonTiki Museum, dedicated to the work of Thor Heyerdahl. The museum also housed the Ra II (the first Ra sank in the Caribbean, before it reached its intended destination, Barbados), made only of papyrus. The opportunity to feel the incredibly light material used to construct the Ra II made clear just how remarkable it was that Heyerdahl could actually make a trans-Atlantic trip in this boat. But there were some telling tales as well. When Heyerdahl sailed the Ra II, there were a great many sharks in the water; his grandson, Olav Heyerdahl, who is currently sailing a boat called the Plastikimade of 12,500 plastic bottleshas seen very few. And it was his grandfather's Ra voyage that first identified oil in the oceanup to that time, people felt the ocean was so large that pumping waste into it would be of no consequencemaking him one of the first visible environmentalists, alongside people like Rachel Carson, author of the seminal book Silent Spring (Houghton Mifflin, 1962).
Thor Heyerdahl's Ra II
A visit to the Viking Museum was also an eye-opening experience, as a replica of a real Viking boat made clear just how remarkable it was that these Europeans crossed the Atlantic, in a boat with no seats, and so the Vikings would sit on the boxes they brought with their belongings.
The Viking Museum
Next up was a trip to the National Heritage Park, which houses structures from across the centuries. Most striking was the farm, where all the wooden buildings had grass roofs, which insulated the structures from the cold in winter, and helped keep them cool in the summer. A guest house, used by an affluent family of the time, had a huge long dinner table, a tremendous bowl typically used for beer (when hot, people would just dip their hats into the bowl), and a bed that, perhaps only a tad larger than a modern single bed, actually held three people. Geist explained that people at the time (18th century) were actually, on average, 20 centimeters shorter than the average height today. Still, it was hard to imagine three people sleeping together on the bedespecially since they slept in a fetal position because, as Geist described, to sleep straight out with their hands over their bodies (a much better fit on the bed) was considered too much like the position of dead people in coffins.
Grass-Roofed Farm, at the Norwegian Heritage Park
There was an old church, where there were no seats (benches would later be installed when it became a Catholic church), and its most notable feature was how dark it was; no stained glass windows (no windows at all); and a very austere pulpit. Still, as an all-wooden structure, it provided a real glimpse into an entirely different culture. A large open-air amphitheatre, still actually used for performanceswas surrounded by the woods, and a walk that led to a courtyard with newer buildings, a café and a gift shop.
Old Church at Norwegian Heritage Park
Driving up to the top of one of Oslo's three hills (Hollmenkollen) for a panoramic view of the city and the fjord, the bus passed a tremendous ski jump that, still under construction, is being readied for 2011, when Norway will host the European Ski Competition. The bus also passed the summer of home of the King of Norway and, while more impressive than its Princess' summer home, was still remarkable for its relatives simplicity and accessibilityno visible security at all, in fact.
New Ski Jump Being Built for 2011 European Ski Competition
The final stop on the trip, before ending where it started at Oslo City Hall, was the Vigelan Sculpture Park, entirely designed by the famous Norwegian sculptor, Gustav Vigeland. The entire parkspanning 80 acres and featuring a life's work of 212 bronze and granite statuesis devoted to the cycle of life, including a tremendous monolithsurrounded by smaller pieces that went from birth to deathand an impressive fountain, wrapped by a variety of statues also reflecting the journey through life. Down the steps from the monolith there was a small circle that was designed so that clapping your hands there was the perfect echo. Step just an inch away from the center of the circle and the echo disappeared; an impressive feat of mathematics.
Fountain in Vigelan Sculpture Park
The cultivated grounds also included parkland, where a dog park provided a central place for Oslo dog owners to bring their pets to meet with other pet owners and to allow their dogs to play freely with others, off-leash. Stunning flower gardens, a bridge crossing a small river with more statues, and cast-iron gates with incredible, detailed designs made the park one of the highlights of the trip. That a city the size of Oslo has a park like this is further proof of the country's commitment to cultureand to providing its people with beautiful, relaxing places to relax and reflect.