Jazz Uncorked
By David Ginochio

April 2002

Jazz Uncorked
Archive

Deerfield Ranch Pinot Noir Sebastopol Syrah Sunce Cabernet Simonsig Estate Wines Deerfield Ranch Wines Sobon Estate Barbera Peterson Zero Manipulation Roche Merlot & Pinot Noir Yorkville Cellars Wooden Valley Wines Milone Zinfandel Argonaut Syrah Claudia Springs Zin Pellegrini's Cab Westover Cab Storrs Grenache Tocai Friulano Lodi "Fancy Quest" 1998 Il Chiaretto Guest Columns Jacky Terrasson Prunotto R.H. Phillips' Malbec

By David Ginochio Deerfield Ranch Winery is a family winery in the heart of California's Sonoma Valley, specializing in small lots of handcrafted wines, each with a refreshingly individualistic style. The winemaker, Robert Rex, has a decidedly French approach to his craft, as well a chef's sensibility when it comes to blending flavors into a harmonious whole. What follows are my impressions of six of Deerfield Ranches finest offerings: Buchignani Vineyard - Dry Creek Valley: 1999 Zinfandel This zin was subjected to 50% whole-berry fermentation and aged in a combo of French and American Oak, for a clean fruitiness and a perceptible complexity. The hue is oh so purple, with aromas of candied violets preparing the palate for flavors of extremely fresh raspberries, licorice, cedar and cherry pipe tobacco. Fruity and crisp, with smooth tannins, power (along with an alcoholic content of 16.5%!) structure and easily a seven-plus second finish. Score 90 Lake County - Roumiguiere Vineyard: 1999 Sangiovese A light violet color and a pleasant strawberry scent greet the senses in this refreshing medium body wine. Flavors include the aforementioned strawberry as well as green tea, with more than a hint of vanilla and oak. Pleasingly sweet tannins and a brief but memorable finish highlight this Californian expression of this notable Italian varietal. Score 86 1999 Russian River Merlot Heady whiffs of perfumed roses and Asian five-spice accompany the rich deep garnet shade in this hearty Merlot, undoubtedly a result of its spending 19 months basking in casks of oak. A dizzying swirl of jam, peaches, cocoa, kalamata olives and bitter almonds greet the tongue, with a hint of mint. This wine strikes me as rustic in a very positive sense, and has a discernible tannic grip, nice structure, and a satisfyingly long finish. Score 88 Ladi's Vineyard - Sonoma County: 2000 Syrah Look no further--here is the perfect little bottle of bistro red you can polish off in a single sitting: acidic, bracing, the ideal mid-week casual fare quaff. Score 84 Peterson Vineyard ­ Sonoma Valley: 2000 Sauvignon Blanc This 100% barrel fermented SavBlanc might be a tad over oaked for some tastes, but it still manages to retain a fresh, grassy aroma, a bracing acidity, and hints of citrus, grain, and tropical fruit lurking beneath its perhaps “oak-cessive” exterior. Score 80 Labbé Vineyard - Sonoma Valley: 1999 Chardonnay When I read on the label this Chardonnay was subjected to 100% malo-lactic fermentation, I cowered, fearing this was yet another of those cookie-cutter, mainstream, by-the-book Chards. Boy, was I wrong. A remarkable clarity, and invigorating aromas of Kaffir lime and grapefruit journey through the olfactory system, and this Chardonnay’s crisp herbal bite, abundant fruit, and splendid balance make this a viable candidate for the perfect food wine. The long, clean finish is just delightful. Score 91 Visit the Deerfield Ranch Web Site