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Zero Manipulation
Peterson Winery
1999 & 2000
By David Ginochio
Fred Peterson is a winegrower/winery owner who is at simultaneously cutting-edge and unabashedly traditional. He manages to take a concept like terroir, and combines it with good old-style California/Italian winemaking techniques, filtered through his extensive experience and education. The result is a style Fred calls Zero Manipulation, meaning very little has been done to the wines, allowing the pure flavors and aromatics inherent in the grapes to shine through, reflecting the environment in which they were nurtured.
This style is highlighted quite aptly in what Peterson calls, appropriately enough Zero Manipulation. This is a blend that changes from year to year. I had the good fortune to enjoy the 1999 and 2000 versions of the Zero Manipulation blends.
The 1999 model is predominantly Zinfandel, with a healthy dose of Petit Sirah added, and is described by the winery as "A good, honest wine produced in the style practiced by the Italian immigrants who originally settled the Dry Creek Valley." This description is a bit modest, as this might very well be one of the best mostly-Zinfandel wines currently available, and certainly the best in its price-range. Smooth, assertive, a bit peppery, full of fresh berries, and finishing with a subtle intensity, Peterson's 1999 Zero Manipulation is one of the nicer Zinfandels I've had the pleasure of drinking for some time.
Score 92
The 2000 Zero Manipulation is mostly Carignane. It is fresh, grapey, vibrant and alive, with hints of laurel, citron, almonds, cranberry and figs. Suggestions of smoke and cola in the olfactory department, and a lean but pleasant finish make this a fine example of Fred Peterson's no tampering philosophy.
Score 89
My favorite of the bunch is the 1999 Dry Creek "Vignobles." A blend of Petit Sirah, Mourvedre, and Zinfandel, this wine is dark as night, opulent, completely unashamed and relentlessly supple. Whiffs of cooked meats, eucalyptus, and vanilla greet the nose; followed by flavors of earth, tar, cherries, nuts, and a taste I'm not sure what to call, except perhaps Autumn. Full-bodied, bursting with fruit, and possessing a truly memorable and lasting finish, to me this sums up in one bottle Peterson's entire scheme.
Score 94
Visit the Peterson Winery Web Site
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Ray Barretto
Trancendance
Circular Moves
By Jim Josselyn
Ray Barretto and New World Spirit are one of the finest ensembles in Latin jazz and on the elegantly swinging "Trancedance" they prove why throughout. The date opens with a simply wonderful arrangement of a simply wonderful Monty Alexander tune, "Renewal". Pianist John Di Martino's solo is a delight, as is the playing of special guest James Moody, here and on the other four numbers he contributes to. Trumpeter John Baily and the tireless percussion section shine on the Randy Weston classic "Hi-Fly". Former NWS trumpeter Michael Mossman's arrangement of Barretto's title track should be recognized as an instant modern jazz classic. The angular, brooding lines, the tight groove and intelligent harmonies and masterful execution by the ensemble, lead by saxophonist Adam Kolker are simply superb.
The master composer and arranger hook up again for "Iberian Interlude" and the results are similar - smart, fresh and soulful! Adam Kolker's arrangement of "Fever" is another example of the jazz mind at work - rescuing a tired, overdone and pretentious tune with careful jazz interpretation, and the clave's just the thing. This music succeeds on many levels, mainly it gets your feet tapping and your brain reacting. "Trancedance" is another musical success from the great Ray Barretto and his fine ensemble.
Track Listing: 1. Renewal 2. Hi-Fly 3. Trancedance 4. Para Que Niegas 5. I Remember Tito 6. Sunset/OnThe Trail (From The Grand Canyon Suite) 7. Round About Midnight 8. Iberian Interlude 9. Fever
Personnel: Ray Barretto, perc, v, Greg August, b, John Bailey, tpt, Vince Cherico, d, John Di Martino, p, Adam Colker, ts, James Moody, f, ts, Los Papines, perc
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